Barazushi: a bucket-list delicacy

town and culture 9.15.2020

"I want to eat barazushi before I die." This sentiment is echoed by many, who after hearing about this unique local sushi-dish made in Tango, simply have to try it. It’s made by sprinkling a variety of ingredients such as crumbled mackerel over sushi rice. This delicacy is unique to the Tango area of Japan, and just might be regarded as the quintessential taste of Japan.

For auspicious occasions bringing people together, its always barazushi.

Festivals bring the people of Tango together. And on festival days, there is always a special sushi-dish in each household. That dish is Tango barazushi. Mothers and grandmothers make Barazushi for festivals, a tradition passed down through generations. You know that come festival time, there’s going to be a feast. The word, gochiso, means “feast” and implies “treating (someone)” to a meal, but when locals smile and shout gochiso, if it weren’t for their faces, the meaning might get a little lost. That’s because locals in Tango have their own dialect. But it’s endearing, and just like the local delicacy, barazushi, these cultural nuances give the Tango area a distinct flavor.

Originally, sushi was made on festival days, but the tradition soon spread to the Obon holiday, birthdays, and occasions where relatives and friends gather. The taste has been preserved through generations.

Barazushi is made in a shallow wooden box called a matsubuta [pinewood cover]. Anyone who has made it has memories of people chatting with one another while the barazushi is divided with a wooden spatula. Making barazushi means so much to people in Tango. It’s a confirmation of social and familial bonds. It’s a way of communication, connecting families, relatives, neighbors, and the community.

Grilled mackerel crumbles make the dish

Tango barazushi is a kind of chirashizushi, which is a rice dish served in a box or bowl with a variety of ingredients sprinkled on top. But the key factor that makes barazushi so unique is the sweet and salty taste of the grilled mackerel crumbled on top. The mackerel brings out the umami of the whole dish, delivers a taste of Japan, and makes the dish something that people of all ages love. It is said that mackerel was once caught inabundance in Tango, and while grilling the fish over open flames on the beach, the meat became dark and crumbly. This ingredient has been used for homemade sushi for quite some time and was kind of a new creation at the time of its inception.

Before the war, Tango barazushi was made using this type of grilled mackerel. Preparing it this way also helped play a role in preserving the food. Shortly after the war, canned mackerel began being used. You may wonder, “Is that because so much mackerel is used when making barazushi?” Only the Tango area sells large-sized mackerel, and this large canned mackerel was actually in danger of not being produced, but more on that subject later.

To assemble barazushi, spread the sushi rice to make a base before adding the grilled mackerel crumbles, shredded egg, red pickled-ginger, kamaboko (fish cake), and shiitake mushrooms. In the Tango area, its customary to cut pieces out so you can see the layers when eating it. People also add seasonal ingredients to create barazushi that matches each season. Although there are certain components that make up a true Tango barazushi, people are always experimenting with different ingredients, shapes, and seasoning for their barazushis. Some people make a two-tiered version with the mackerel sandwiched between layers of rice. Some of them are cut in the standard square, but there are also round versions as well. Ingredients such as burdock root, bamboo shoots, and kampyo are also popular additions. Since the dish is traditionally a home-cooked meal, there is no firm rule for what constitutes barazushi. As explained above, recipes vary by household and have been handed down through the family. Despite the various differences, in Tango one can’t help but think of mackerel when making barazushi, that and its connection to special days that bring people together.

Torimatsu, a restaurant specializing in barazushi

Tango bara-zushi has recently become available in many restaurants as a "Tango specialty.” But among the restaurants and shops offering this specialty, Torimatsu in Amino, Kyotango City, pioneered the spread of barazushi to the food world. In fact, despite also excelling in seafood and Japanese cuisine, Torimatsu is synonymous with barazushi to the extent that foodies from all over the country seek this restaurant out.

Shohei Maekawa, the representative of Torimatsu, says, "I was born and raised in Tango so my mother has always made barazushi. It’s familiar."
But when he was a child, Mr. Maekawa heard that barazushi was only available in Tango, not nationwide. He remembered thinking, "Well, it’s delicious, right? Isn't it sold everywhere?"

There are various kinds of chirashizushi all over the country, but there was nothing that matched barazushi. It was around 1978-79 that Torimatsu’s Osamu Maekawa, Shohei Maekawa’s relative and predecessor, began selling barazushi at the restaurant. One day, when a customer asked him, "Isn't there a specialty in Amino?", Osamu Maekawa had the idea to serve a dish that was indicative of his hometown, barazushi. At the time, there wasn’t a single place selling barazushi, and even though he wanted to, people in the area continued to believe there was no real way to sell it (because the dish was homemade and differed by household).

Unfortunately, their fears became a reality, and it didn’t sell well for quite some time. But this wasn’t the only problem. Because preparing barazushi means creating a large dish that serves at least ten people, when it doesn’t sell there is a lot wasted. It was especially hard for Mr. Maekawa to make a dish that was so important to him, only to have to throw it away. But despite the setbacks, he knew there was something special about the dish and continued to believe in his vision of spreading barazushi.

One day, someone from the tourism industry in Kyoto asked Mr. Maekawa if he wanted to attend a week-long event at a department store in Tokyo. Torimatsu, having never experienced what it would be like at an event like this one, expected that, like before, he wouldn’t sell much. And he prepared accordingly. However, at the event, they sold out almost immediately. Mr. Maekawa made more on site at the event, and then cooked all night to make more for the next day. The pride he felt for his hometown specialty and desire to serve as many customers as he could pulled him through. The faith he had in barazushi, the patience and continued effort, had finally paid off.

After that, Torimatsu actively sought to open booths at special events with the idea of "enhancing Kyoto." And throughout the entire time, the delicious taste of barazushi has remained unchanged. Even when the price of ingredients goes up, Torimatsu has never compromised on the quality of their ingredients. There were also times where fraudulent claims arose about the origins of certain foods and delicacies (such as barazushi), but Torimatsu’s barazushi is the genuine Tango sushi. Authenticity is extremely important to Mr. Maekawa. He has repeatedly turned down TV appearances if the script the production company wants to use paints a story that differs from historical facts. Torimatsu has continued to protect the history of Tango. “In both our business and our ingredients, honesty is paramount,” says Maekawa.

From the brink of extinction to large canned mackerel

After the war, canned mackerel was used for Tango barazushi. In order to create the exact flavor of the dish, Torimatsu uses a very particular large canned mackerel, always from the same manufacturer. To get the flavor just right, domestic, large mackerel is a must. The flavor is just better. If anything were to change (for example, size or even the canning manufacturer), the barazushi’s taste would change.

One day there was a notice from the manufacturer that production was being stopped. The factory is located in Aomori (northern part of Japan) and the mackerel canning didn’t operate on a large-scale production line. The canning was done one by one, but since it was a size that couldn’t be sold in supermarkets, there wasn’t any value in continuing to produce it.

Worried that Tango’s food culture would disappear, Mr. Maekawa went to the factory in Aomori Prefecture, more than 12000km away. And he brought with him Tango barazushi. He also brought with him letters from customers who love his barazushi. He told the manufacturer that he pledged to buy the same quantity of large canned mackerel going forward and that he wouldn’t purchase less than he already was.

Thanks to Mr. Maekawa, the number of customers purchasing this canned mackerel (in many cases specifically to make barazushi) has increased, and Mr. Maekawa has been recognized for his efforts. It is widely understood that the large canned mackerel is directly related to Tango’s food culture. Mr. Maekawa visited that canned mackerel production center several times, making sure to tell the people who worked there how important they were to Tango. The deep flavors of Torimatsu’s barazushi have been preserved thanks to the persistence of Torimatsu, the willingness of the manufacturer, and the relationship they formed that protects this important food culture.

Sharing how to make barazushi!

Mr. Obata, the head chef of Torimatsu, gives us a look at the place where barazushi was born.

First of all, to make barazushi properly means spending time preparing each and every ingredient.

Here are the ingredients Torimatsu uses for barazushi. From the left, kampyo, bamboo shoots, shiitake mushrooms, kamaboko, shredded scrambled egg, grilled mackerel crumbles, and in the background, green peas and red ginger. The ingredients are not only delicious but colorful! Aside from the green peas, which can be added as is, each cook prepares a large batch of each ingredient. And of course, the crumbled mackerel is also carefully made using the mackerel mentioned earlier on in the article.

This is a handmade shredded egg. Since one egg is not nearly enough for barazushi, a lot of eggs are cooked, cooled, and then cut into ribbon-sized pieces. It is a good idea to fry the shredded egg rather than soft-boil them. It's more savory and matches better with the rest of the dish. But be sure not to overcook them.

The defining characteristic of Tango barazushi is the grilled mackerel crumbles. But sushi rice is, of course, the foundation. Tango is a region where the rice has been awarded the highest rank in quality multiple times. And the flavor is not at all overwhelming. After thoroughly mixing in the vinegar, it’s important to gather the sushi rice into a heap (shown right) and leave it for a while (don’t cool it immediately). By doing this, the heat of the rice will cause the vinegar to diffuse evenly, resulting in a non-greasy vinegar rice. After leaving it for a while, stir it again and let it cool.

When the ingredients and sushi rice are all prepared, it's finally time to start "plating it.” The picture above shows it being prepared inside a wooden frame, as the chef lays the first layer of sushi rice.

Sprinkle the kampyo over the sushi rice.

Now it’s time for a layer of grilled mackerel crumbles.

Torimatsu makes a two-tiered style of barazushi that requires a second layer of sushi rice spread out over the grilled mackerel crumbles. Each area in Tango has a different approach.

Add a second layer of the grilled mackerel crumbles and kampyo.

On top of that sprinkle on firm bamboo shoots.

The shredded egg acts as a fluffy and inviting carpet.

Then comes the shiitake and kamaboko (fish cake), adding some more color.

Complete the dish with green peas and red ginger! Are we finished? No, the main event still remains!

The moment when the frame is removed and the barazushi stands alone. Are you ready?

Ta-da!

It’s a masterpiece! Look at how the grilled mackerel is layered in between.

The preparations aren’t over yet. Barazushi is traditionally divided and served using a wooden spatula. This time, a kitchen knife is used to divide the dish into six delicious squares.

That perfect plating!

“I want to eat barazushi before I die.”

"Tango barazushi" was born in the town of Tango. Nowadays, not only can you find it at many stores throughout Tango, but you can also find it at larger businesses like malls and department stores, roadside stations, and highway service areas.

Does barazushi have some irresistable charm? Allow me to answer with a story.

One day, Torimatsu received a phone call. It seemed that a mother living in Osaka had only a short time to live and was asked what she wanted to eat before she died. She said, “I want to eat Torimatsu’s barazushi.”

Her son wanted to pay cash when it was delivered, but unfortunately Torimatsu is unable to ship barazushi. The owner had to answer, “I can’t mail it to you.”

Instead, he delivered it.

He delivered it himself. The family all cried they were so happy.

As a matter of fact, there are many people who share this same sentiment, the desire to have Torimatsu for their final meal. This story is only meant to give a glimpse into how Torimatsu approaches their business and how sincere they are in regards to ingredients and customers.

There are so many different dishes and specialties one can choose for their final meal in life. What would you choose?

Originally, Tango barazushi was a local dish. It may just be that sushi has a universal nostalgia that people long for. Without a doubt, barazushi has a taste that people can’t live without.

*Please keep in mind that Torimatsu doesn’t offer barazushi delivery.

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